A handy item to keep under your Model ‘A’ Seat
by Bob Toms
This is a simple device that will help you diagnose trouble in your electrical system and, in some cases, offer a temporary solution to get you home: a simple length of wire, about 500mm (20 inches) long, with alligator clips attached to each end. An easy do-it-your-self item! · Connected across the terminals of the junction box, it can bypass a faulty ammeter.
· Use a longer bolt in the distributor terminal of the condenser. Connect this to the red coil wire using the by-pass wire and you can energize a defective ignition switch or faulty armored cable.
· If the cut-out contacts fail to close, you can by-pass the cut-out to charge the battery. · If the cut-out is stuck closed, the by-pass wire can be used to ground the generator output terminal.
· It can be used to test resistance (or voltage loss) in the horn and lighting circuits by by-passing switches and connectors.
· For that matter, it can be used to test contacts and wires hidden in body work or in con-duits.
FIVE MINUTES TO MAKE COULD SAVE YOU HOURS TO FIX!
Thank you to Andre Millar, in South Australia’s Model A Torque.
Technical Notes: Points to Ponder
#2 on the Model ‘A’
by Lynn Sondena, Sandy, Oregon
Model A engines like “hot” spark plugs.
• To locate exhaust system leaks, squirt a small amount of kerosene into the air intake of the carburetor while the engine is running. Leaks will be visible from the black smoke appearing at the leak.
• Use zinc chromate primer, it helps to prevent rust.
• Torque spark plugs 34 to 38 pounds.
• Backlash is the play between the teeth of two gears which are engaged.
• Advanced spark is igniting the fuel mixture before Top Dead Center.
• Retarded spark is igniting the fuel mixture after T.D.C.
• Zenith float level adjustment is done by adding or subtracting washers underneath the float valve.
• Did you know that the float valve fiber gasket is the same size as the distributor shaft sleeve fiber washer? Snyder’s number A-12181 or Mac’s #A-12194.
• A front-end shimmy is usually caused by loose tie rod ends, or drag link ends. It can also be worn ball studs on the steering arms and pitman arm.
Volcano View May 2013
Tips from Down Under
Found in a newsletter from New Zealand,
Canterbury Chapter Brake Rod AntiRattlers
Correct installation: Disconnect rear rod clevises, loosen locking nuts, and remove clevises; slide anti-rattlers over rods so that they are pushing against donuts toward rear of car, bolt to bracket on radius rods; reinstall clevises and locking nuts.
Fronts are different - anti-rattlers slide on from eye end of brake rods, so disconnect from cross-shaft arm at center of car, slide anti-rattler on, bolt to bracket; reconnect rod at center. You may have to enlarge the openings in the front anti-rattlers so they will slide over the eyes.
Oil Loss: A quart of oil is 36,500 drops of oil. A normal engine in the ‘60s used 1/1100 of a drop on every power stroke (1 quart every 1000 miles was normal back then) and if an engine drips one drop every 50 feet, and it doesn’t matter how fast you’re going, (think about it) the engine will lose 1 quart in 300 miles. They used this to illustrate that a drop was actually much higher consumption than a burn!
Burning Points: Loose connection somewhere between cutout and battery, causing voltage to go berserk and burn points. Check connections at: cutout, junction box, ammeter, added fuse holder, (if any). Remove both forward 3/8” nuts on junction block and tighten both of the 3/8” nuts inside the box. Be sure ground system is good by clipping test light to gearshift, put point to middle of + battery post, step on starter with key off. No light = good grounding. Light on = poor ground connection somewhere. Feel each connection for being HOT! Loose connection = HEAT. In regard to the condenser. The job of the condenser is to take the brunt of power from the coil when the points break to keep the points from sparking/burning. In modern times in every other application other than automotive we call them capacitors.
Painting Fuel Gauge Figures : Has the black paint in the fuel level markings disappeared?
1. Clean the curved sector with the markings really well.
2. With a tiny brush or toothpick, fill the letters with fuel-proof paint. I use a glossy black epoxy spray paint. It will take 2 or 3 coats. Do no worry about putting on a bit too much.
3. When the paint is really dry, wet-sand the sector with something like 600 grit paper to remove all the overflow paint. Gas Tank Welting: One piece goes from one side of the tank, all the way to the other side, starting and ending at the rear edge of the hood. At the sides, it runs between the cowl and the tank, and in the center, between the tank and that strip that runs right under the windshield. There are various tricks for getting the welting to stay in place. You will need to pre-cut holes or slots for the bolts that hold the filler strip and tank to the dash rail. You will also need to make some notches in the flat part of the welting to help it go around the corners. The last inch or so, where it passes under the cowl band, has the core removed, and it serves as an antisqueak under the front top corner of the cowl.
Gearbox Shielded Bearings: Main drive gear and main splined shaft cannot be perfectly shielded and shielding may not be a smart thing. Ford designed parts to take advantage of function. The front bearing does not matter much. It faces up and there is the throw-out bearing sleeve preventing oil from going anywhere. The rear bearing is open to the U-joint. The grease forms a packing and the oil that leaks past will get into the U-joint and then back to the speedo gear and the drive shaft bearing. So why seal the rear bearing.
Script ‘A’ News, December 2020
Grease your Speedometer Cable
How long has it been since you lubricated your speedometer cable? Lubrication of the speedometer cable must rate among the most overlooked, and definitely the messiest, maintenance item on the Model ‘A’ Ford.
While driving, the speedometer cable rubs against the speedometer cable housing, creating hot spots where it rubs. A good lubricant reduces the friction, increasing speedometer cable life and reducing noise. White lithium or black molly are good lubricants.
Harley Davison also makes a good speedo-cable lubricant. To lubricate the cable, remove it from the housing, and apply grease to the length of the cable as you put the cable back into the housing. You only need to disconnect one end of the speedometer cable housing to accomplish this task, and if working over your head is not a problem, disconnecting the speedometer housing from the drive assembly on the torque tube will allow access to the speedometer cable and leave your instrument panel untouched.
By Jim McPherson - Aiken A's